It’s the most wonderful time of the year. Well, to us fashion enthusiasts. New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is upon us, with the official kick off scheduled for Friday, February 11th. The winter edition of Fashion Week is often less publicized than it’s September counterpart, yet is just as fabulous and fashion-forward. The most exciting facet is the foreshadowing of new trends we can expect to transcend from the runway to the street.
Since 2014, the official NYFW calendar has been owned by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, aka the CFDA. Each designer found on the calendar has gone through a rigorous application process in order to be included. While this responsibility is a massive undertaking for designers accompanied by countless moving parts and scrupulous public attention, the CFDA must take on the additional responsibility of addressing fashion’s sustainability crisis.
The CFDA has stated that sustainability is a key pillar for the organization. In visiting council’s website, you’ll find a robust library of sustainability resources, including case studies from Stella McCartney, a Sustainability Strategies Toolkit, and an A-Z Materials Index. The CFDA partnered with the Boston Consulting Group for a particularly detailed report and playbook entitled, Sustainability by Design: Rethinking New York Fashion Week. A statement by BCG’s Global Head of Luxury Sarah Willersdorf explains, “We recognize that making NYFW more sustainable is but a mere drop in the bucket but it can serve as a bellwether for changes, not only for the many other fashion weeks held worldwide, but also for the entire fashion industry. Sustainability is not a nice-to-have anymore. It is essential both for our planet and for the long-term prosperity of the fashion industry.”
According to the CFDA’s website, they had planned on hosting a series of events leading up to this year’s Fashion Week regarding the sustainable fashion industry. No follow up actions on that schedule have been made publicly visible, so it’s unclear if these events took place. The winter spike in COVID has significantly complicated the scale of Fashion Week events taking place this season.
Although the CFDA itself is not a manufacturer of clothing, NYFW still has a heavy impact on our environment. In fact, its website doesn’t shy away from the staggering fact that “NYFW generates 40,000 to 48,000 tons of C02, a small portion of the 1.2 tons generated by the global fashion industry.” One of the ways the organization can wield its power for good is by incorporating strict sustainability requirements into its designer application process. The applications are currently closed, therefore it’s uncertain if designers are specifically being asked to disclose details around their contributions, or lack thereof, to sustainable practices.
This year’s show attendees will now find an array of emerging, diverse, and sustainable designers. Due to societal progression, “Since 2020, the CFDA has not only established a Black Advisory Board to dismantle systemic racism in the industry, but also created IMPACT—an initiative to identify, connect, support, and nurture Black and Brown creatives and professionals in fashion.” (Essence). There’s still a long way to go, but it’s encouraging to see how much the calendar has evolved since 2014.
Let’s take a closer look at seven incredibly talented designers who are giving consumers the 2022 definition of sustainable fashion this winter.
Dauphinette
Dauphinette is a luxury fashion and accessories label founded by Olivia Cheng in 2018. The brand is quickly recognized for their otherworldly florals, feathers, and crocheted details. Behind each design is a deeply sustainable process. The pieces in Cheng’s collections are one-of-a-kind, made in New York, and sourced by both recycled and byproduct materials. Choose any piece and it will stand on its own like a work of art. For example, each Ivory Claude Silk Organza Top uses over twenty flowers sealed into unique hand-cut arrangements before being slipped into each cuff. She uses excess feathers from clothing as trim on vintage purses. Cheng aptly calls Dauphinette, “The Happiest Brand on Earth.” From reclaiming materials to supporting local seamstresses, this label certainly makes for a happier planet.
Markarian
Since learning how to sew from her grandmother at age ten, it’s clear that Markarian founder Alexandra O’Neill has continued to dedicate herself to the craft as she’s made her own mark on the fashion industry. Like Dauphinette, O’Neill supports New York’s garment workers by bringing them in as her manufacturing team. The sustainable designer’s aesthetic is romantic, ethereal, and deeply feminine. One of the brand’s most notable moments was when First Lady Jill Biden wore a custom Markarian dress and coat to the inauguration of her husband, President Joe Biden. Markarian’s efforts to produce with as little waste as possible are clear– as each special piece is thoughtfully and locally made-to-order.
Bevza
Bevza is a luxury independent womenswear brand from Ukraine. The designs are sleek and clean, featuring neutral colors with an emphasis on minimalism. According to the brand, “The key approach… is defined by less and luxe.” “Less” doesn’t just apply to the minimalist designs, but to the idea that we can own less and waste less. Built on a ‘white dress concept,’ Bevza believes that this is the most pure and iconic item we can own, easily worn again and again. Founder Svitlana believes in ethical production and achieves this by pushing the envelope on innovative materials. Bevza uses eco-friendly digitally printed coats instead of fur, and some knits use recycled plastic and excess fabric.
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst is a luxury women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories collection. The name is one of the most recognized in the world of sustainable designers. Gabriela and her team coined the term “honest luxury,” meaning consideration for where materials are sourced and by whom the garments are being made. There is a painstaking amount of detail sewn into every piece. For example, jackets and coats are lined with a silver fabric that prevents cell phone radiation from reaching women’s reproductive organs. The brand is decorated with numerous accolades and regularly supports charitable causes such as Save The Children and humanitarian relief in Yemen. Gabriela herself is a part of the CFDA’s research steering committee responsible for producing the Executive Summary and Report on NYFW’s environmental impact.
Bruce Glen
Identical twins Bruce and Glen Proctor launched their eponymous sustainable clothing brand infused with fun, joy, and every color of the rainbow. Before the start of their own label, the brothers’ resumes came with high-level experience having launched brands with Beyonce, Nicki Minaj, and Diddy. Their website emphasizes “wear on repeat,” and outfit re-wearing is one of the most sustainable approaches we can have towards our wardrobes. Bruce Glen’s pieces can take 2-3 weeks to be delivered, because each item is made to order. This dramatically minimizes waste and avoids overproduction which is one of the most direct ways fashion brands can apply sustainable practices. Bruce Glen’s most noticeable dedication to conscious production is its partnership with Resonance Brands. Resonance uses digital printing, biodegradable fibers, and pays its workers fair wages.
Collina Strada
Before a fashion label, Collina Strada defined itself as a platform for social issues and awareness. However, style is not at all far behind. Every piece is colorful, edgy, and radically different from anything else in the market. They’ve even caught the attention of heavy hitters like Levi’s– recently collaborating on an exclusive line of denim jeans and jackets. Like Gabriela Hearst, founder Hillary Taymour is also of the CFDA’s research steering committee. As a deeply sustainable designer, Taymour manufactures the pieces locally in New York and employs a wide range of planet-friendly materials like rose sylk, deadstock fabric, and recycled cotton.
Abacaxi
From supporting artisan workers to sourcing upcycled and natural textiles, Sheena Sood’s label Abacaxi is demonstrably sustainable. Expect an assortment of vibrant hues and silhouettes traditional to South Asia, with inspiration pulled from nature and Sood’s own global travels. Each piece is made to last (for generations, they claim!) and is made in small batches in India and Peru. Even the tags are thoughtfully designed, embroidered with inspirational statements like, “Everything is Within You.”
Ultimately, New York Fashion Week exists to enable consumerism, as the event is in continuous conflict with the concept of sustainability. Simultaneously, the bi-annual event is also an incredible opportunity to showcase artistry, support emerging talent, inspire diversity in thought and vision, and highlight innovation in materials. All of these aforementioned facets move the needle along on sustainability becoming more than just a buzzword. Each sustainable designer discussed above has the privilege of standing on a platform to show every consumer how possible it is to welcome sustainability into their wardrobes. That’s something to jump for joy about in your upcycled vegan leather overalls.
Featured Image: The Impression
